Tubulars (like, tubular man...)
First, I am not trying to sell anyone on riding tubular tires and rims. I have noticed that most of the information and comments on the web and in the cycling press about tubular wheels is negative, so I am thinking someone needs to be an advocate. Most see them as a relic from the past but the pros don't think so. Due to the interest of the pros and serious riders in tubular wheels for cross racing, there are more tire choices available now.
When I started riding bikes, clinchers were unsafe at any speed. This was before the "hook bead rim" appeared; the flat side rim would only take about 60 to 70 psi before the tire popped off the rim, or, worse, came off in a corner. Tubulars were what serious riders considered. So we learned the skills from the Euros to make them work and they worked extremely well. Everyone had at least one spare tire that was stretched and had a bit of glue for a spare. Back in the very early days when the rims were wood and the tires were bigger (the roads were not paved) the tires were formed in a figure 8 and riders put their arms through and wore them on their backs - sometimes two or 3 at a time as there were no trains or support cars.
We never had a problem with the tires coming off the rims as long as there was enough air in the tires. I have seen beginners show up at races with no glue on the tires and the tires stayed on. (I am NOT recommending this unless you are into the jackass thing)
One of the superior attributes of the tubular design is that the air pressure energy in the tires goes down into the rim toward the center of the wheel, holding the tire on the rim. In the clincher, the energy goes into the rim side walls trying to pull the rim apart.
This is also an advantage as the tubular tires will tolerate more air pressure. Track tires use 160 to 180 psi. To my knowledge clinchers are still not allowed on the track. No one needs that much pressure unless the paved surface is very smooth.
Another superior fact about tubular tires is that they are perfectly round so transitioning into and out of corners is smoother. This is one reason the industry is trying clincher designs to be more like tubular tires (tubeless and the new 23mm theory). If you think about it, neither design will really work like a tubular because the tire is not perfectly round and the air pressure still goes to the side instead of toward the center of the wheel. You can make the rim wider but it is still not perfectly round.
If you want a tubular ride just get a tubular. Nothing in nature seeks to be a square but always seeks a circle. The best rim designs are not square but a combination of circles and triangles. The circle and triangle is much stronger. The circle matches the tire where it joins the rim. The triangle at the top of the rim where the spokes join the rim for stability. There is no reason for the profile of the rim to be more than 30 mm. More profile just makes the rim heaver. In my experience aero rims and spokes are all smoke and mirrors.
The tubular rim is much simpler than the clincher. Therefore the rim can be lighter and should cost less. Check out the weight of the carbon rims. The lightest are tubular. Otherwise why pay the price of carbon if it isn't lighter than aluminum? I think one of the best tubular rim design is the Velocity Escape and Pro Elite. Again, the triangle and circle.
Okay now to the negatives. You have to deal with the messy process of gluing the tire on. You can take it to the dealer but they probably have never seen one. Much of the lore of cycling is learning some simple skills. The bicycle and most other industries have taken simplicity away, but Grant Petersen at Rivendell has been telling us that for years - much better than I can.
One major negative is that if you puncture a tubular you have to learn a major skill: how to repair it (or else you have to toss it)! But enter the magical tire sealant. Like the tubeless tires which are difficult to deal with if you have a flat, you can use the same sealant for a tubular tire. The TUFO tire has had a sealant for years. They also have a tape that can replace the glue. People ask, “Can I depend on the tape in the summer or can I do Crit racing with the tape?” In fact, you can. We are finding that to remove the tire from the rim, you need to leave a 10mm gap to fit a tire lever to pry the tire off. It is that strong of a bond.
Enjoy your ride.
Joe
First, I am not trying to sell anyone on riding tubular tires and rims. I have noticed that most of the information and comments on the web and in the cycling press about tubular wheels is negative, so I am thinking someone needs to be an advocate. Most see them as a relic from the past but the pros don't think so. Due to the interest of the pros and serious riders in tubular wheels for cross racing, there are more tire choices available now.
When I started riding bikes, clinchers were unsafe at any speed. This was before the "hook bead rim" appeared; the flat side rim would only take about 60 to 70 psi before the tire popped off the rim, or, worse, came off in a corner. Tubulars were what serious riders considered. So we learned the skills from the Euros to make them work and they worked extremely well. Everyone had at least one spare tire that was stretched and had a bit of glue for a spare. Back in the very early days when the rims were wood and the tires were bigger (the roads were not paved) the tires were formed in a figure 8 and riders put their arms through and wore them on their backs - sometimes two or 3 at a time as there were no trains or support cars.
We never had a problem with the tires coming off the rims as long as there was enough air in the tires. I have seen beginners show up at races with no glue on the tires and the tires stayed on. (I am NOT recommending this unless you are into the jackass thing)
One of the superior attributes of the tubular design is that the air pressure energy in the tires goes down into the rim toward the center of the wheel, holding the tire on the rim. In the clincher, the energy goes into the rim side walls trying to pull the rim apart.
This is also an advantage as the tubular tires will tolerate more air pressure. Track tires use 160 to 180 psi. To my knowledge clinchers are still not allowed on the track. No one needs that much pressure unless the paved surface is very smooth.
Another superior fact about tubular tires is that they are perfectly round so transitioning into and out of corners is smoother. This is one reason the industry is trying clincher designs to be more like tubular tires (tubeless and the new 23mm theory). If you think about it, neither design will really work like a tubular because the tire is not perfectly round and the air pressure still goes to the side instead of toward the center of the wheel. You can make the rim wider but it is still not perfectly round.
If you want a tubular ride just get a tubular. Nothing in nature seeks to be a square but always seeks a circle. The best rim designs are not square but a combination of circles and triangles. The circle and triangle is much stronger. The circle matches the tire where it joins the rim. The triangle at the top of the rim where the spokes join the rim for stability. There is no reason for the profile of the rim to be more than 30 mm. More profile just makes the rim heaver. In my experience aero rims and spokes are all smoke and mirrors.
The tubular rim is much simpler than the clincher. Therefore the rim can be lighter and should cost less. Check out the weight of the carbon rims. The lightest are tubular. Otherwise why pay the price of carbon if it isn't lighter than aluminum? I think one of the best tubular rim design is the Velocity Escape and Pro Elite. Again, the triangle and circle.
Okay now to the negatives. You have to deal with the messy process of gluing the tire on. You can take it to the dealer but they probably have never seen one. Much of the lore of cycling is learning some simple skills. The bicycle and most other industries have taken simplicity away, but Grant Petersen at Rivendell has been telling us that for years - much better than I can.
One major negative is that if you puncture a tubular you have to learn a major skill: how to repair it (or else you have to toss it)! But enter the magical tire sealant. Like the tubeless tires which are difficult to deal with if you have a flat, you can use the same sealant for a tubular tire. The TUFO tire has had a sealant for years. They also have a tape that can replace the glue. People ask, “Can I depend on the tape in the summer or can I do Crit racing with the tape?” In fact, you can. We are finding that to remove the tire from the rim, you need to leave a 10mm gap to fit a tire lever to pry the tire off. It is that strong of a bond.
Enjoy your ride.
Joe